Famous Trad Climbing Routes: The Ultimate Test of Skill & Adventure
Traditional (trad) climbing is one of the purest and most demanding forms of climbing, requiring removable protection gear—like cams, nuts, and hexes—that climbers place and remove as they ascend. Unlike sport climbing, where bolts are permanently fixed, trad climbing demands a deep understanding of rock protection, route-finding, and mental fortitude.
Some trad routes have achieved legendary status, attracting climbers from around the world for their historic first ascents, technical difficulty, and breathtaking settings. SENDY is here to introduce you to some of the most famous and awe-inspiring trad climbing routes on Earth.
Legendary Trad Climbing Routes Around the World
The Nose – El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, USA
Length: ~3,000 ft (900 m) | Grade: 5.14a (free) or 5.8 C2 (aid)
One of the most iconic big-wall climbs in history, The Nose follows a natural line up El Capitan's sheer granite face. First climbed in 1958 using aid climbing, it was later free-climbed in 1993. Elite climbers like Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell, and Alex Honnold have cemented their legendary status.
The Eiger – North Face, Switzerland
Length: ~5,900 ft (1,800 m) | Grade: V 5.8+ M
Known as the "Mordwand" (Murder Wall) due to its extreme alpine conditions, the North Face of the Eiger is a historic and deadly test piece in the world of mountaineering. First ascended in 1938, it remains a serious and committing trad challenge, requiring climbers to battle freezing temperatures, rockfall, and technical terrain.
Freerider – El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, USA
Length: ~3,000 ft (900 m) | Grade: 5.13a
Made famous by Alex Honnold’s legendary free solo ascent in "Free Solo" (2018), Freerider is one of El Cap’s most coveted free-climbing lines. Featuring the infamous "Boulder Problem" crux, this route demands technical precision, endurance, and mental strength.
Great Trango Tower – Trango Group, Pakistan
Length: ~4,400 ft (1,340 m) | Grade: VI 5.10 A2
The Great Trango Tower in Pakistan's Karakoram Range boasts the tallest vertical rock face on Earth. Its sheer size, remote location, and high-altitude climbing challenges make it one of the hardest big-wall trad climbs in the world.
Lotus Flower Tower – Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada
Length: ~2,200 ft (670 m) | Grade: 5.10
Set deep in the remote Northwest Territories; Lotus Flower Tower is a dream trad climb featuring perfect golden granite and stunning alpine views. Accessible only by bush plane and a long hike, this epic multi-pitch climb is worth every ounce of effort.
https://www.blakerandallphotography.com/fine-art-prints/p/lotus-tower
The Totem Pole – Tasmania, Australia
Length: ~213 ft (65 m) | Grade: 5.12d
A thin, freestanding sea stack, The Totem Pole is one of the most breathtaking and committing trad climbs on the planet. With exposure over the wild Southern Ocean, climbers must navigate narrow ledges and wildly overhanging terrain to reach the top.
Salathé Wall – El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, USA
Length: ~3,000 ft (900 m) | Grade: 5.13b
A classic El Cap route, the Salathé Wall blends aid and free climbing with notable features like The Ear, The Headwall, and the Half Dollar. First ascended in 1961, it’s considered one of the most aesthetic lines on El Capitan.
Old Man of Hoy – Orkney Islands, Scotland
Length: ~449 ft (137 m) | Grade: 5.10 (E1 5b)
A striking sea stack towering above the North Atlantic, the Old Man of Hoy is one of Britain’s most famous trad climbs. This sandstone monolith, first climbed in 1966, offers incredible exposure, dramatic views, and unpredictable weather challenges.
Directissima – Piz Badile, Switzerland
Length: ~2,500 ft (750 m) | Grade: 5.10a
A classic alpine rock route, Directissima ascends the sheer North Face of Piz Badile. A mix of technical granite climbing and high-altitude exposure, it remains a bucket-list climb for experienced trad climbers.
https://cosleyhouston.com/piz-badile.htm
Gogarth – Anglesey, Wales, UK
Length: Varies | Grade: Up to E7
A renowned sea cliff climbing area, Gogarth is home to classic trad lines like Dream of White Horses (E2 5b). Climbing here requires nerve, precise footwork, and a willingness to battle sea spray and shifting tides.
Hell’s Gate – Rift Valley, Kenya
Length: Varies | Grade: Up to 5.11
A spectacular climbing destination where you can scale towering cliffs while zebras, giraffes, and buffalo roam below. Fischer’s Tower, a 30-meter volcanic pinnacle, offers bold trad routes with stunning views.
The Shark's Fin – Meru, India
Length: ~4,000 ft (1,200 m) | Grade: VI 5.12+ A3
One of the most notorious big-wall climbs in the world, The Shark’s Fin on Meru Peak defeated climbers for decades before Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk finally summited in 2011. This mixed alpine and trad masterpiece requires extreme perseverance and technical mastery.
Trad Climbing: A True Test of Skill & Commitment
Trad climbing is not just about physical strength—it demands:
Mental endurance to manage fear and stay composed.
Route-finding skills to read the rock and plan protection.
Technical proficiency to place and remove gear effectively.
Patience and perseverance, especially on big walls and alpine routes.
Climbing legendary trad routes is a life-changing experience, offering unparalleled challenges, deep history, and some of the most breathtaking landscapes on Earth.
Ready to Tackle a Trad Classic?
If you're inspired to take on a legendary trad route:
Start small and build experience before tackling high-grade routes.
Train for endurance, crack technique, and gear placements.
Always climb within your limits and prioritize safety.
Respect local ethics and preserve the environment.
From the soaring granite walls of Yosemite to the remote pinnacles of Tasmania and Kenya, the world of trad climbing offers an endless supply of adventure. So gear up, tie in, and SEND IT!
