Rock Climbing Lingo
The climbing community has a language unto itself, jargon and slang used to communicate quickly and effectively.
Here are some common terms you'll hear at the crag:
General Slang
Send: to successfully complete a climb.
Project: a climb in progress, but hasn’t been completed yet.
Crux: the hardest part of the climb.
Beta: information or advice about how to climb a route.
Gumby: a beginner or inexperienced climber.
Pumped: when your forearms are extremely tired and full of lactic acid.
Whipper: a big fall, typically while lead climbing.
Bomber: extremely solid and reliable protection or a hold.
Sandbag: a route that is harder than its given grade.
Climbing Types
Bouldering: climbing short, powerful routes without ropes over crash pads.
Sport Climbing: climbing routes with pre-placed bolts for protection.
Trad Climbing: climbing routes where the climber places removable protection as they ascend.
Top Rope: climbing with a rope that runs from the climber, up to an anchor at the top of the route, and back down to the belayer.
Holds and Moves
Jug: a large, easy-to-hold handhold.
Crimp: a small edge you grip with the tips of your fingers.
Sloper: a hold with a sloping surface that’s hard to grip.
Pinch: a hold that you grab by pinching it between your thumb and fingers.
Dyno: a dynamic move where you jump or leap to reach the next hold.
Heel Hook: using your heel to hook over a hold for stability.
Mantle: a move where you push down on a hold to get your body up and over it.
Runout: a section of a climb where protection is sparse, increasing the potential fall distance.
Deck: hitting the ground during a fall.
Peel: to fall off the rock.
Top Out: climbing over the top of a boulder or cliff.
Rappel: descending a rope using a belay device.
Stemming: using opposing walls to brace and climb, often seen in chimneys or dihedrals.
Gear
Cams: spring-loaded pieces of gear placed in cracks for protection.
Nuts: metal wedges that are placed in cracks for protection.
Quickdraws: 2 carabiners connected by a short, strong sling, used to clip the rope to bolts or other protection.
Chalk: magnesium carbonate used to keep your hands dry.
Crash Pad: a portable, padded mat used to protect climbers when they fall, especially in bouldering.
Commands
On Belay?: the climber’s question to confirm if the belayer is ready.
Belay On!: the belayer’s response indicating they’re ready.
Off Belay: informing the belayer that you no longer need the belay.
Climbing!: the climber indicating they are beginning to climb.
Take!: asking the belayer to take up slack in the rope.
Lower!: the climber’s request to be lowered down by the belayer.
Slack: asking for more slack in the rope.
Up Rope: asking the belayer to take in rope slack.
Watch Me: a warning that a fall is likely imminent.
Clipping: informing the belayer that you are about to clip the rope into protection.
Safe: confirming that you’re secured and no longer need the belayer’s attention.
Situational Terms
Epic: a climb that becomes unexpectedly difficult or dangerous.
Exposure: the feeling of being high up on a climb with significant air below.
Redpoint: completing a climb without falling after having practiced it previously.
Redpoint Crux: the hardest part of the climb that remains after figuring out the rest.
Flash: successfully completing a climb on the first try with some prior information.
Onsight: successfully completing a climb on the first try without any prior information.
Runout: a section of a climb where protection is sparse, increasing the potential fall distance.
Deck: hitting the ground during a fall.
Peel: to fall off the rock.
Top Out: climbing over the top of a boulder or cliff.
Rappel: descending a rope using a belay device.
Stemming: using opposing walls to brace and climb, often seen in chimneys or dihedrals.
Miscellaneous
Barn Door: when your body swings sideways away from the wall due to a lack of opposing forces.
Chicken Wing: jamming your arm into a crack and using your elbow to push against one side while your hand pulls against the other.
Elvis Leg: when your leg starts shaking uncontrollably due to fatigue or fear.
Choss: loose, crumbly rock that’s dangerous to climb on.
Seepage: water running down the rock face, making holds slippery.
Want More??
More Holds and Moves
Gaston: a hold that requires you to push outward, as if opening a door.
Undercling: a hold that you grip with your palm facing up, often requiring you to pull up.
Mono: a small pocket hold that only fits one finger.
Match: using both hands on the same hold.
Flagging: sticking a leg out to the side to maintain balance.
Deadpoint: a dynamic move where you reach for a hold at the peak of your upward motion.
Other Types of Climbing
Aid Climbing: using gear to assist in climbing, rather than protection only.
Free Climbing: climbing using only natural rock features and holds, but with gear for protection in case of a fall.
Free Soloing: climbing without any ropes or protection.
Simul-Climbing: two climbers moving simultaneously with the rope running between them for protection.
More Gear
Grigri: a belay device that assists in braking, making it easier to catch falls.
ATC: Air Traffic Controller, a common belay device.
Carabiner: a metal loop with a spring-loaded gate, used to connect components in climbing systems.
Belay Device: a mechanical device used to control a rope during belaying.
Bail: to retreat from a climb, often leaving gear behind.
Piton: a metal spike driven into a crack in the rock for protection (more common in traditional and aid climbing).
International Climbing Grading Systems
YDS (Yosemite Decimal System): used primarily in the US to grade the difficulty of climbs.
V-Scale: used for bouldering problems, starting from V0 (easiest) and going upwards.
French System: commonly used in Europe, with grades like 5a, 6b, 7c, etc.
E-Scale: used in the UK to rate the seriousness and difficulty of trad routes.
Font Scale: used for bouldering, similar to the V-Scale, popular in Europe.
Understanding these terms will help you communicate more effectively with fellow climbers and improve your overall climbing experience. Whether you're out at the crag, in the gym, or reading up on climbing techniques, knowing the lingo can make a big difference. Climb On!
