Belay Devices
be·lay: /bəˈlā/ : to fix (a rope) around a cleat, rock, pin, or other object, to secure it.
Belay devices are essential tools in climbing, used to control the rope during belaying. They’re designed to arrest a climber's fall and manage the rope during ascent or descent.
Here's a breakdown of the main types of belay devices and their features:
Types of Belay Devices
Tube-Style (ATC): named after Black Diamond's Air Traffic Controller (ATC), these devices are versatile and commonly used. They consist of a simple tube with slots for the rope. Lightweight, it can be used for both belaying and rappelling, providing good control over the rope. Suitable for all-around climbing including sport, trad, and gym climbing.
Black Diamond ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Mantis
Black Diamond ATC
Assisted-Braking: have a mechanism that assists in braking, making it easier to catch falls. Providing extra security, they’re especially useful for belaying heavier climbers or in case of sudden falls. Ideal for sport climbing, lead climbing, and gym climbing.
Petzl Grigri, Edelrid Mega Jul, Mammut Smart
Petzel Grigri
Figure Eight: shaped like a number eight, these devices are primarily used for rappelling. It’s a simple design, with smooth rope management, and less common for belaying. Mainly used for rappelling, occasionally for belaying in certain situations.
Black Diamond Super 8, Petzl Huit.
Black Diamond Super 8
Auto-Locking: also known as auto-belay or self-braking devices, these provide automatic locking in the event of a fall. Offering a high level of safety, they’re often heavier and more complex. Suitable for top-roping, indoor climbing, and anytime maximum security is required.
Belay Master, Petzl Rig.
Petzel Rig
Plaquette Devices: are multi-functional and can be used for belaying one or two climbers simultaneously allowing for auto-block mode. Versatile, they can be used for guide mode in multi-pitch climbing. Ideal for trad climbing and multi-pitch routes.
Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC-Guide.
Petzel Reverso
Choosing a Belay Device
Climbing Style: your choice of belay device should match the type of climbing you do. For instance, sport climbers might prefer assisted-braking devices like the Grigri, while trad climbers may opt for a versatile tube-style device.
Experience Level: beginners might benefit from assisted-braking devices for added security, while more experienced climbers might choose devices that offer more control.
Weight and Size: if weight is a concern, especially on long routes, opt for a lightweight device.
Rope Compatibility: be sure the device is compatible with the diameter of your climbing rope. Most can accommodate a range of rope sizes.
Features to Consider
Braking Assistance: assisted braking can make belaying safer and easier.
Versatility: some devices can be used for multiple climbing disciplines.
Ease of Use: consider how intuitive the device is to use, especially in stressful situations like catching a fall.
Maintenance and Care
Check your belay device for signs of wear, such as sharp edges or cracks. Keep your belay device clean and free from dirt and debris for smooth operation. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent damage from UV exposure.
Belay devices are a crucial part of climbing safety gear, and choosing the right one can significantly enhance your climbing experience. Climb on!
