What are the 3 Types of Protection in Trad Climbing?
Trad climbing: short for traditional climbing, it’s a style of rock climbing where climbers place their own protection, such as cams, nuts, and other devices, into natural features of the rock to protect against falls.
There are three main types of protection you can use:
Active Protection: refers to devices that rely on mechanical components to create friction and hold securely within the rock. These include camming devices (cams) and spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs). These devices expand when placed into a crack, creating friction against the rock and holding the climber's weight in the event of a fall.
Passive Protection: consists of devices that do not have moving parts and rely on the natural shape and structure of the rock for placement and stability. These include nuts (also known as chocks or wires), hexes, and tricams. These devices are wedged into cracks or constrictions in the rock and rely on their shape and friction to stay in place.
Anchors: are pieces of protection used to secure the climbing rope at belay stations or to protect against falls on multi-pitch routes. Anchors can include a combination of active and passive protection, as well as features of the rock itself, such as bolts or natural features like trees or boulders. Building strong and secure anchors is essential for safe trad climbing, especially on longer routes where climbers may need to belay or rappel from multiple points.
These types of protection provide you with a versatile toolkit for protecting yourself and your partner on a wide range of rock types and climbing situations. Understanding how to select and place appropriate protection is essential for safe and successful trad climbing adventures so take a course from climbers who are trained in the different approaches.
Placing Protection Effectively:
With a combination of technical knowledge, experience, and good judgment, you'll enjoy the challenge.
Assess the Route: identify potential placements for protection before you start climbing. Look for cracks, fissures, or other features where you can place gear securely. Consider the size and shape of the cracks and the type of protection that will fit best.
Choose the Right Gear: Select appropriate gear based on the size and shape of the cracks and the type of rock you'll be climbing. Carry a variety of cams, nuts, hexes, and other devices in different sizes to accommodate a range of placements.
Evaluate the Quality of the Rock: test the stability and integrity of the rock before placing protection. Look for solid, reliable features that can support the weight of a falling climber without dislodging or breaking off.
Assess the Direction of Pull: think about the direction of pull on the gear in the event of a fall. Place your protection in such a way that it will hold securely and withstand the force of a fall without shifting or popping out.
Proper Placement Technique: when placing protection, ensure it's secure and stable. For cams, camming devices, and nuts, place the gear snugly (but not overly tight) to avoid damaging the rock or causing the gear to become stuck. For passive protection like nuts and hexes, seat the gear firmly in the crack and set it at a slight upward or downward angle to prevent it from dislodging.
Test the Placement: once you've placed the gear, give it a gentle tug or pull to test its stability. If the gear feels solid and secure, continue climbing. If it shifts or moves when tested, adjust the placement or try a different piece.
Back Up Your Protection: whenever possible, back up your placements with additional gear for added security. This is especially important on critical placements or in situations where the rock quality is questionable.
Regularly Inspect Gear: check your gear and placements as you climb to be sure they remain secure. Replace worn or damaged gear as needed.
Practice and Gain Experience: start with easier climbs and gradually work your way up to more challenging routes as you gain confidence and skill.
Remember that trad climbing involves risk, and the ability to select and place protection effectively is essential for your safety. Always climb within your ability level, seek guidance from experienced climbers, and prioritize safety at all times.
